I always wanted to add hydro assist to my Jeep but questioned the PSC kit’s price point. Being a simple system I figured others would work just as well or better. Enter Redneck Ram from West Texas Offroad.
I found myself once again calling my buddy Dirk to help lend his expertise with this somewhat complicated install.
This was a two day install, as we could only work nights.
First things first, we put the Jeep on the lift, removed the front driver tire/wheel, tie rod, and sway bar links. We also removed the pitman arm from the drag link (leaving the passenger side connected).
Today with friends Chad and Dirk, we installed a Synergy Tie Rod and Sector Shaft brace kit into Chad’s 2007 Jeep JK. This was a great project, so I decided to do an install on it, hopefully to help any other Jeepers with their own future installs.
Remove factory components: We ended up removing the track bar, sway bar links, driver’s side coil, and drag link. We also removed the driver’s side shock, to help with coil removal.
2. Remove the four factory bolts that hold the steering box in place. Be sure to leave one barely threaded, or have a friend ready to catch and hold the steering box! These are the only bolts holding it in place. Remove the pitman arm nut (keep the washer handy!).
I was one of the early adopters of the “bedlined grille” look. My OEM paint was chipping from winter road debris, and I just thought it made sense to have a durable, easy to repaint grille coating on the front of the Jeep. However, when it came to repaint it this Summer I got the great idea to use a new, polyurethane liner and totally messed it up.
This is a VERY involved install that will require exhaust configurations, trips to the tool store, modifications, Jeep friends, and beer. This is NOT a quick “bolt-up” installation as I thought it would be. Understand that – you may require multiple days to get it done right.
This was one of the most significant installs I have done on my Jeep.
With the Jeep sitting on a new suspension of Evo Long Arms and King Coilovers, the time was rapidly approaching for a new driveline. The immediate priority was the front, which I ordered from Northridge, choosing a 1310 made by Coast.
Install was easy and relatively pain free. This is for a manual transmission Jeep JK.
Now that my build is pretty established, with the long arm kit, coil overs, and new 37s I figured it was time to start thinking about ways to save money and improve some trail functionality.
One of the areas I have been interested in was the tuner market. On a recent visit to 4 Wheel Parts in Portland, I decided to pick up a Bully Dog GT Platinum tuner. I will write an actual review of this unit after I spend some time with it.
The install had some gotchas, so I thought I’d write a more detailed install, to help others save time.
One of the biggest concerns I have had with the JK platform was under hood heat. The engine bays (in both the 3.8 and 3.6 variants) are super cramped, and we push our Jeeps when offroading, especially in hot and dusty places like Moab or the Rubicon.
I was really excited when Rugged Ridge sent me one of their performance vented hoods to try. This would be the perfect chance to see just what kind of a difference would be seen with a vented hood.
Before the Rugged Ridge hood, I considered a bunch of options. Starting with the cheaper end, I looked at hood louvers from companies like Gen Right and Poison Spider. The biggest benefit to these, is that you do not need to paint your hood.
I installed the Rugged Ridge low mount snorkel kit on my 2010 JK (3.8L) way back when, and remembered that while a tedious install, the benefits of this kit were well worth the effort. The same can be said about this kit for the 3.6 Pentastar.
I wanted to share some tips and tricks for the install, as well as some mods I have to make so it would accommodate my bolt on coilover kit, and Bushwacker fender flares. It is impossible for any manufacturer to consider all possible customizations, so I hope this can help a lot of people.
Please heed my advice and, before you tear your Jeep apart, run to the store and buy:
One of the last major upgrades I needed to make to my Jeep was a proper lift. I have been happily running the Teraflex 2.5″ “Budget Boost” but we all know those do not offer the benefits of a real lift.
The install is cutely referred to as “bolt on” but there is very little bolt on about this. It actually really irritates me that it is branded as such.
Evo should consider this a “hybrid solution” that requires minimal cutting and easy welding.
You will spend countless hours grinding off stock frame parts and drilling new holes. No instructions are provided (none as in ZERO, NADA) so you will also spend a good amount of time with puzzle pieces and counting hardware parts to see what bolts go where.
So I wanted to write this huge post as a way to help those that are about to undertake this install. Hopefully my tips and tricks will save you time and frustration. Grab a cold one, sit down, and read through this post before starting your own kit.
I decided to run the ARB V-Twin Air compressor as my air source. This was due to a couple of factors. Primarily, I want the ability to run air tools if needed on the trail. Second, I wanted some fast air for my 35s. Third, if I ever end up running aftermarket ARB lockers, I wanted to have the air situation figured out.
However I mounted mine to the M.O.R.E. underhood mount. This puts the open air receptacle right at the top of the compressor, and under the hood where the innards could be susceptible to water and dust.
So, I decided to add the manifold to the mix to fix these concerns.
Installation was simple and only needed a handful of tools.