This week, my Black Friday package from ACE Engineering finally arrived!  All the hardware was glistening.  Horror stories of boxes being deformed in transit were unfounded for me.  Everything was in perfect condition…except one thing.  Where are the instructions?

ACE did not include any, and I personally found their video online as missing some key updates.  So I hope this install write up is a help to many!

NOTES: This install is for a 2013 Jeep JK.  I also found that ACE has been making changes to their products, and not everything in their video instructions is accurate anymore.

1. Open all boxes and lay out all hardware.  Ensure you properly protect the bumper and other items from concrete and damage to the powder coat.

2. Remove the factory or other bumper from the Jeep.

3. Insert the shorter hex bolt into each end of the Lifetime LED light.  For the end of the light that will be on the OUTSIDE end of the bumper, make sure you get enough turns on the bolt that it is secure.  This is because you will not be able to get a hex wrench (or anything, really) in the small space.  You will tighten the bolt on the other end with the wrench to secure the light.

NOTE: Run the wiring so they are on the inside of the bumper.

4. Drop the light into place, and per the above, tighten the INSIDE bolt with the included hex wrench.

5. Repeat install for the other side.

6.  Locate the nut plate in the kit, and find the two non-open holes in the top-center of the rear frame.

7. Starting with pilot holes, drill these out.  End with a 1/2″ bit.  Properly clean the holes with a magnet to prevent filings from getting into threads.

8. Place the bumper on the rear frame of the Jeep (you can put the nut plate in a safe place).

9. Remove one side tail light assembly from the Jeep.  Remember, only remove the two INSIDE screws.

10. Grab electrical supplies: Extra wiring, butt connectors, male/female blade connectors, heat shrink, and other materials.

11. Using the butt connectors, extend the positive (RED) and negative (BLACK) wires.  I ran about 1 meter of additional wiring.

12.   At the tail light assembly, clip the black wire leading from the harness to the reverse assembly, NOT the black that goes from reverse to brake/tail light.  Also clip the white/green wire – this is your positive.

NOTE: Your wiring may differ, this is a 2013 JKUR.

13. Turn the ignition to the accessory position, and (if manual) shift into reverse.  At the rear of the Jeep, touch red/red and black/black for a light test.

14. Route wire extensions through the tub and through the tail light assembly space on the rear of the Jeep.

DRIVER SIDE: I ran the extension over the bumper, along the back and up through the opening via the “foam” piece.

PASSENGER SIDE: There is a small hole with foam insulation.  Poke a screwdriver through (I taped the wires to it) and reach in through the tail light opening to grab the wires.

15. Pull the wiring up through. Install the male blade connectors onto one end of the wiring. Note that on the tail light end, you will only have one wire.  On the LED light end, you will be twisting the new wire and the cut factory wire together!

16. Install the female blade connectors on the appropriate wiring locations.

17. Firmly connect all connectors.

18.  Heat shrink/tape/cable tie all cabling and secure as you wish.

19. Do the same test and wiring modifications on the other side of the Jeep.

20. Slide the nut plate into location between the bumper and the frame (where the two holes were drilled earlier).  NOTE: ACE instructions address the need to grind down the frame and to drill additional holes in the frame.  I found this was not needed.

21. Thread the bolts up through the bumper, the frame holes you drilled,  and into the nut plate. Stack should be: Bolt > Locking Washer > Washer > Bumper >Nut Plate.  Also insert the two bolts through the rear of the frame crossmember into the back of the bumper at this time (two outermost frame holes).

22. Install the 4 bolt assemblies into the 4 holes at the rear of the frame in a Bolt > Locker > Washer pattern.

23. Tighten the two lower bolts with tools.

24. Install the nylon cradle into the gate plate as shown.

25. Remove factory bolts and install the gate plate assembly as oriented below, reusing the factory bolts.

26. Thoroughly apply grease to the shaft of the tire carrier. Also grease the inside of the hole on the bumper.

27. Insert the tire carrier into the bumper assembly.  You may need to slightly wiggle the shaft into place as it is a very tight fit.

28.  Place the large washer and nylock nut on the underside of the tire carrier shaft (there is an opening underneath the bumper). Tighten.  It may be useful for someone to hold the tire carrier closed while you are tightening.

29. Install the Heim joint as shown below.  Spacer position is important!  Tighten.

30. Close the tire carrier and bring the Heim joint through.  Assemble it to the tire carrier as shown.

31. With the gate closed, see if the tube seats fully into the nylon cradle.  Mine did not, and left a gap (below).  if you have a gap, adjust the jam nuts and Heim assembly to draw that close and tight.

32. Assemble the tire holder (ACE calls it a stanchion) to the tire carrier using the 4 bolts/lockers/washers provided.  Its a little weird to not add a washer between the bolt and the stanchion, but ACE knows best. Tighten.

The below shows the rear.

33. Place the spare tire on the stanchion.  Tighten all lugs accordingly.

34. The tire should fit firmly against the carrier.  If not, follow ACE’s instructions on adjusting the stanchion  to move the tire back and against the carrier.

35. Check all bolts and nuts are tight.  Perform one final test and take it for a test drive!

In closing:  I am blown away with the quality and design of this kit.  All grade 8 high quality hardware, beautiful welds, durable powder coat, and flawless install.  Great job, ACE!